Emergency Shaft Seal Bladder Systems

2010 February 15
by Chris
Wartsila Seal Bladder System Tested on Shaft

Wartsila Seal Bladder System Tested on Shaft

Many of the large “Class” vessels have seal systems such as Wartsila or Duramax that have an emergency inflatable bladder.  The system is basically an inflatable bladder (like a bicycle tire tube but far more durable) that is housed just aft of the ships seal system.  If there is damage to the seal, air pressure is applied from a ship’s compressor or simple bicycle pump to inflate the bladder.  The air press causes the bladder to tighten around the shaft and slow the leak to a small drip.  If the system is operating properly it should maintain air pressure for hours.  However, the systems are not designed to withstand the friction of the shaft turning.  Usually the vessel has a shaft brake system to allow movement with one engine without the “down” shaft from turning.

We have just completed a 5 year ABS inspection on the running gear on a 121′ Heesen.  We removed the Wartsila seals and tested the inflatable bladder at the shop.  The picture below shows the set-up on the shaft (145 mm shafts).  The video above shows the inflation of the bladder using a simple bicycle pump.  It is a good thing we tested the bladder.  We found the fittings on one side to be loose and would not hold air pressure for more than a few seconds.

Confidence at sea comes from careful preparation and testing of all the ship’s systems.

Another Wartsila Shaft Seal Adjustment Tool for ManeBar Seals

2010 February 6
by Chris
Wartsila EL Shaft Seal with Compression Tool
Wartsila EL Shaft Seal with Compression Tool

Wartsila Shaft Seals are often found on larger Class Yachts.  The principal of the system is based on a face seal created by a phenolic ring riding on a graphite base.  The phenolic ring does wear with time and use similar to a brake pad.

This seal is out of a 121′ Heesen that is going through a normal 5 year ABS inspection.  The running gear is completely removed, cutlass bearings replaced, engine and strut alignment checked, shafts, props and couplers are checked in the machine shop.  Finally, the shaft seal system is removed for inspection.  This particular seal is the EL ManeBar model.  All the components were checked against the manufacturer’s specifications and found to still be acceptable to reinstall in the vessel.
Once the shafts are installed the system must be adjusted or compressed to tolerance in order to create a dry shaft seal system.   I wrote about a tool for a different Wartsila Seal model a few months ago.  Wartsila has designed their seals with a special installation tool in order to get an even and controlled compression.  For the EL Shaft Seal the tool is comprised of threaded rod, a “hook block”, nuts and washers.  Each vessel with Wartsila Shaft Seals should have the tool on board.  Unfortunately, since the tool is only used once every few (or five) years it is often hard to find.  In this case, our machine shop fabricate this tool with Wartsila’s support and permission.  A special thanks to Steve and Brian at Wartsila for their excellent customer support.

Replacing Soundown Coupling Thrust Element

2010 February 1
by Chris
Soundown Thrust Element - Old Deterioration vs. New
Soundown Thrust Element – Old Deterioration vs. New

Soundown Vibration Dampening systems are usually found on older large yachts.  This one came out of a 123′ Feadship.  The center stud has two urethane “Coupling Thrust Elements” that have a finite life and should be checked every 10 years.  The Thrust Element in the photo was 50% deteriorated and came out in small pieces.  The picture shows the remnants on the bolt washer and in the part.  The new urethane part is also shown in the picture.

Replacing these elements is not a simple task.  The Soundown and spool combination weighs over 250 lbs which presents certain challenges when hoisting out of a bilge and carrying through a yacht’s interior.  The center bolt requires 1,150 foot pounds of torque by specification.  We must bolt the Soundown to a bench in order to apply the right torque (using a torque multiplier).  Setting up the Soundown properly and applying the right torque requires removal from the vessel and work in our machine shop.  We find it impossible to get the right set-up and leverage in the bilge or engine room.
If another yard is performing this Thrust Element change in your engine room make sure they are applying the right torque to the center bolt.  If they are – and have figured out how to do this without taking it out of the vessel – please send me a quick email.  My mechanics do not appreciate the health benefits of the workout required to haul 250 lbs out of the boat.

Shaft Cladding to Repair Crevice Corrosion

2010 January 27
by Chris
Cladding or Weld-over on Aquamet shafts
Cladding or Weld-over on Aquamet shafts

From time-to-time we come across shafts that have suffered from a bad case of crevice corrosion.  Crevice corrosion, unlike galvanic corrosion, comes from stagnant water that changes chemical composition with time.  We find crevice corrosion on shafts in the seal area, bearing area and inside the stern tube.  Usually the crevice corrosion is not found on the part of the shaft exposed under the boat since tidal flow keeps the water moving and “fresh”.  Wiki has more explanation here.

Crevice corrosion on the shaft in non-bearing or seal areas are OK and usually left alone.  However, if the corrosion is in a cutlass bearing location or seal/packing area it must be repaired.  The pitting will cut up a new cutlass bearing in a short time and will not let a shaft seal properly seat and keep dry.
To repair the area, as we are doing on this 87′ Oceanfast, requires machining down the shaft (as seen to the left of the machinist shoulder) and then filling in the area with a welding bead.  This is called a weld-over or cladding (more pics here).  In this picture there were two different areas requiring repair.  The area pictured is right under a half cutlass bearing.  The welded area is a smaller section where the Tides seal will run. 
Once the weld is complete the shaft will require straightening (600 degree welding will bend the shaft regardless of precautions), then a final machine and polishing.  I challenge someone to come to the shop and find the weld when finished – it blends in that well.

Strange Noise??? – Dry Cutlass Bearings!!!

2010 January 22
by Chris
Running with cool bearings
Running with cool bearings

A week ago I got a call from a Captain on a 120′ Sovereign that was experiencing a very troubling vibration problem.  He had already had a vibration analysis company survey the boat and had another yard pull the shafts and replace all cutlass bearings.   The sound was coming from the port side shaft and was described as an audible “zupe….zupe….zupe”.

Since he was in Fort Lauderdale I agreed to go for a short sea trial to listen and feel.  The sound was very apparent during the initial idle down the intercoastal waterway, however, it was intermittent.   After a few minutes of crawling with ears to the floor and bulkheads the location of the sound was narrowed to the cutlass bearing located in the aft end of the stern tube.  The sound and vibration was consistent with the shaft frequency.  It occurred at all different RPM ranges (we went offshore for more speed) but continued to be intermittent.  The sound was not a common prop or bearing sing – nor was it a hopping vibration consistent with a bent shaft.  It was a rubbing sound.
 
After a careful inspection of the engine room and a run-down on the history of the recent engine work we diagnosed the problem as dry stern tube cutlass bearings.  The cooling line that runs from the engine to the Tides shaft seal also serves to deliver water to the cutlass bearing in the stern tube.  It sounded like it was not delivering enough water to keep the bearing lubricated at all times.  The “zupe” sound was the SS shaft dragging on the dry rubber of the cutlass bearing.
 
The ships engineer replaced the cooling hose to the Tides seal system.  The old hose and fittings showed signs of blockage.  A total investment of  $20 for new hose and an hour of time in the engine room was all it took to resolve the problem.  Consistent water going to the bearings kept it cool and lubricated at all RPMs.
 
It is personally gratifying to help a customer fix a problem and enjoy their boat regardless of the size of the job.  The captain and owner were very happy to get the problem fixed and dodge another big yard bill while High Seas adds another customer to our growing reference list – oddly, we have this reference for the work that we did not do (haul-out, remove shafts…..)   Since the sound was intermittent and bearings were just replaced a few engine hour ago we assume, at this time, that the bearing was not wiped out and the customer avoided the problem experienced in this blog on dry Thordon Bearings on the 135′ Intermarine or in this blog on dry Cutlass Bearings on the 123′ Feadship.
 
Happy Sailing

WATER COOLED Cutlass Bearings

2010 January 21
by Chris
Stern Tube Cutlass Bearing Completely Worn

Stern Tube Cutlass Bearing Completely Worn

Here is another case of poor water cooling for a cutlass bearing.  This cutlass bearing came out of the forward end of the stern tube on a 123′ Feadship.  The cooling line that runs to the stuffing box keeps the packing cool and provides water to the two cutlass bearings located in each stern tube.

Unfortunately, the cooling line was blocked closer to the engine and the stuffing box and bearing ran dry for a short period of time.  It does not take long to completely wipe out a cutlass bearing when running dry.

Since the vessel is now in the yard for more extensive service we are removing the running gear from both sides (three shafts per side coupled by SKF Hydraulic muff couplers) and performing a complete engine alignment.

Looks like we will need a few more of the large sleeves for the SKF Muff Couplers (as seen here on a past project).

Rudder Bearings – Loose and Leaking

2010 January 10
by Chris
Tides Lower Bearing and Seal Assembly

Tides Lower Bearing and Seal Assembly

A past customer called with an emergency problem.  His 61′ Queenship was taking on water from the rudder seals and needed to be hauled and serviced right away.

The system was an old version Tides rudder bearing and seal Type “D” and the problem was four-fold. 

The old seals were worn. 

The upper bearing in the shelf had come loose and was allowing too much play in the rudder stock.

The lower bearings were out of specification allowing too much rudder stock movement.  Tides allows up to .025″ before replacement.

There were no spares on the rudder shaft to allow for temporary repairs.

Queenship 61' After Rudder Bearing Repair

Queenship 61' After Rudder Bearing Repair

After haul-out we dropped the rudders and inspected the bearings.  The upper shelf bearings were in tolerance and OK once re-secured in the proper aligned position.  The lower bearings required replacement since they were beyond the .025 wear specification from Tides Marine.  Replacement was relatively simple with the Tides Type D system.  The new bearing and seal assembly threads into the existing tube that is already glassed and bedded into the hull.

Final launch and check – dry bilges and solid rudders.

Hydraulic Teignbridge Propellers

2010 January 10
by Chris
Hydraulic Teignbridge Propellers

Hydraulic Teignbridge Propellers

Hydraulic propellers and couplers show up from time-to-time.  We found both on the 87′ Oceanfast project.  Hydraulic propellers are installed on shafts with a very shallow or flat taper.  There are no keys or keyways in the shaft.  Hydraulics are connected to the ports and inject a high pressure layer (up to 40,000 PSI) of hydraulic fluid between the prop hub and shaft.  The hydraulic pressure expands the prop hub and creates a layer of fluid that allows the prop to slide off the shaft (actually it goes with a bang similar to popping any mechanical prop).

Laser Deck Targeting

2010 January 10
by Chris
Laser through to Engine Room Bulk Head

Laser through to Engine Room Bulk Head

Deck Targeting is an absolute requirement for some yachts to ensure the vessel is block on land in the same shape as in the water.   Light weight vessels that do not have a strong keel structure will “hog” when picked up in the travel lift slings.  If the yard crew blocks the vessel with this hog shape (higher at the sling points and lower on the ends) then any attempt to run an optical scope alignment will fail.

The answer is a laser deck target, double or triple beam.  The laser is set while the vessel is in the water.   Measurements and marks are made prior to haul-out.  Once on land the blocking crew are instructed by High Seas to make blocking and jack-stand adjustments to recreate the measurements exactly.

Sometimes the laser needs to be raised up to shoot all the way to the forward engine room bulk head.  A tripod gets the job done as seen in the photo.

This project will involve a complete engine alignment and running gear overhaul on an 87′ Oceanfast.  This particular vessel is a full keel design and very rigid.  The laser deck target showed that there was almost no flex or hogging during the haulout.  It is great to know the vessel is blocked accurately so that we can proceed to the optical scope alignment and make changes to the engine or strut alignments if necessary.

Palmer Johnson – Which way is front??

2009 December 30
by Chris
Palmer Johnson Designed Prop in Front of Strut

Palmer Johnson Designed Prop in Front of Strut

You don’t come across this design too often. 

This 90′ Palmer Johnson was one of only a few built with a novel design.  The prop is in front of the strut.  The concept allows cleaner water to enter into the prop thereby increasing the prop’s efficiency.

In order to keep the vessel running smoothly our machine shop carefully mated the stub shaft to the prop face.  Cutlass bearings are a challenge since it is difficult to get clean water running just aft of the prop in the skeg/strut.

Blog WebMastered by All in One Webmaster.