Shaft Cladding to Repair Crevice Corrosion

2010 January 27
by Chris Brown
Cladding or Weld-over on Aquamet shafts
Cladding or Weld-over on Aquamet shafts

From time-to-time we come across shafts that have suffered from a bad case of crevice corrosion.  Crevice corrosion, unlike galvanic corrosion, comes from stagnant water that changes chemical composition with time.  We find crevice corrosion on shafts in the seal area, bearing area and inside the stern tube.  Usually the crevice corrosion is not found on the part of the shaft exposed under the boat since tidal flow keeps the water moving and “fresh”.  Wiki has more explanation here.

Crevice corrosion on the shaft in non-bearing or seal areas are OK and usually left alone.  However, if the corrosion is in a cutlass bearing location or seal/packing area it must be repaired.  The pitting will cut up a new cutlass bearing in a short time and will not let a shaft seal properly seat and keep dry.
To repair the area, as we are doing on this 87′ Oceanfast, requires machining down the shaft (as seen to the left of the machinist shoulder) and then filling in the area with a welding bead.  This is called a weld-over or cladding (more pics here).  In this picture there were two different areas requiring repair.  The area pictured is right under a half cutlass bearing.  The welded area is a smaller section where the Tides seal will run. 
Once the weld is complete the shaft will require straightening (600 degree welding will bend the shaft regardless of precautions), then a final machine and polishing.  I challenge someone to come to the shop and find the weld when finished – it blends in that well.

Strange Noise??? – Dry Cutlass Bearings!!!

2010 January 22
by Chris Brown
Running with cool bearings
Running with cool bearings

A week ago I got a call from a Captain on a 120′ Sovereign that was experiencing a very troubling vibration problem.  He had already had a vibration analysis company survey the boat and had another yard pull the shafts and replace all cutlass bearings.   The sound was coming from the port side shaft and was described as an audible “zupe….zupe….zupe”.

Since he was in Fort Lauderdale I agreed to go for a short sea trial to listen and feel.  The sound was very apparent during the initial idle down the intercoastal waterway, however, it was intermittent.   After a few minutes of crawling with ears to the floor and bulkheads the location of the sound was narrowed to the cutlass bearing located in the aft end of the stern tube.  The sound and vibration was consistent with the shaft frequency.  It occurred at all different RPM ranges (we went offshore for more speed) but continued to be intermittent.  The sound was not a common prop or bearing sing – nor was it a hopping vibration consistent with a bent shaft.  It was a rubbing sound.
 
After a careful inspection of the engine room and a run-down on the history of the recent engine work we diagnosed the problem as dry stern tube cutlass bearings.  The cooling line that runs from the engine to the Tides shaft seal also serves to deliver water to the cutlass bearing in the stern tube.  It sounded like it was not delivering enough water to keep the bearing lubricated at all times.  The “zupe” sound was the SS shaft dragging on the dry rubber of the cutlass bearing.
 
The ships engineer replaced the cooling hose to the Tides seal system.  The old hose and fittings showed signs of blockage.  A total investment of  $20 for new hose and an hour of time in the engine room was all it took to resolve the problem.  Consistent water going to the bearings kept it cool and lubricated at all RPMs.
 
It is personally gratifying to help a customer fix a problem and enjoy their boat regardless of the size of the job.  The captain and owner were very happy to get the problem fixed and dodge another big yard bill while High Seas adds another customer to our growing reference list – oddly, we have this reference for the work that we did not do (haul-out, remove shafts…..)   Since the sound was intermittent and bearings were just replaced a few engine hour ago we assume, at this time, that the bearing was not wiped out and the customer avoided the problem experienced in this blog on dry Thordon Bearings on the 135′ Intermarine or in this blog on dry Cutlass Bearings on the 123′ Feadship.
 
Happy Sailing

WATER COOLED Cutlass Bearings

2010 January 21
by Chris Brown
Stern Tube Cutlass Bearing Completely Worn

Stern Tube Cutlass Bearing Completely Worn

Here is another case of poor water cooling for a cutlass bearing.  This cutlass bearing came out of the forward end of the stern tube on a 123′ Feadship.  The cooling line that runs to the stuffing box keeps the packing cool and provides water to the two cutlass bearings located in each stern tube.

Unfortunately, the cooling line was blocked closer to the engine and the stuffing box and bearing ran dry for a short period of time.  It does not take long to completely wipe out a cutlass bearing when running dry.

Since the vessel is now in the yard for more extensive service we are removing the running gear from both sides (three shafts per side coupled by SKF Hydraulic muff couplers) and performing a complete engine alignment.

Looks like we will need a few more of the large sleeves for the SKF Muff Couplers (as seen here on a past project).

Rudder Bearings – Loose and Leaking

2010 January 10
by Chris Brown
Tides Lower Bearing and Seal Assembly

Tides Lower Bearing and Seal Assembly

A past customer called with an emergency problem.  His 61′ Queenship was taking on water from the rudder seals and needed to be hauled and serviced right away.

The system was an old version Tides rudder bearing and seal Type “D” and the problem was four-fold. 

The old seals were worn. 

The upper bearing in the shelf had come loose and was allowing too much play in the rudder stock.

The lower bearings were out of specification allowing too much rudder stock movement.  Tides allows up to .025″ before replacement.

There were no spares on the rudder shaft to allow for temporary repairs.

Queenship 61' After Rudder Bearing Repair

Queenship 61' After Rudder Bearing Repair

After haul-out we dropped the rudders and inspected the bearings.  The upper shelf bearings were in tolerance and OK once re-secured in the proper aligned position.  The lower bearings required replacement since they were beyond the .025 wear specification from Tides Marine.  Replacement was relatively simple with the Tides Type D system.  The new bearing and seal assembly threads into the existing tube that is already glassed and bedded into the hull.

Final launch and check – dry bilges and solid rudders.

Hydraulic Teignbridge Propellers

2010 January 10
by Chris Brown
Hydraulic Teignbridge Propellers

Hydraulic Teignbridge Propellers

Hydraulic propellers and couplers show up from time-to-time.  We found both on the 87′ Oceanfast project.  Hydraulic propellers are installed on shafts with a very shallow or flat taper.  There are no keys or keyways in the shaft.  Hydraulics are connected to the ports and inject a high pressure layer (up to 40,000 PSI) of hydraulic fluid between the prop hub and shaft.  The hydraulic pressure expands the prop hub and creates a layer of fluid that allows the prop to slide off the shaft (actually it goes with a bang similar to popping any mechanical prop).

Laser Deck Targeting

2010 January 10
by Chris Brown
Laser through to Engine Room Bulk Head

Laser through to Engine Room Bulk Head

Deck Targeting is an absolute requirement for some yachts to ensure the vessel is block on land in the same shape as in the water.   Light weight vessels that do not have a strong keel structure will “hog” when picked up in the travel lift slings.  If the yard crew blocks the vessel with this hog shape (higher at the sling points and lower on the ends) then any attempt to run an optical scope alignment will fail.

The answer is a laser deck target, double or triple beam.  The laser is set while the vessel is in the water.   Measurements and marks are made prior to haul-out.  Once on land the blocking crew are instructed by High Seas to make blocking and jack-stand adjustments to recreate the measurements exactly.

Sometimes the laser needs to be raised up to shoot all the way to the forward engine room bulk head.  A tripod gets the job done as seen in the photo.

This project will involve a complete engine alignment and running gear overhaul on an 87′ Oceanfast.  This particular vessel is a full keel design and very rigid.  The laser deck target showed that there was almost no flex or hogging during the haulout.  It is great to know the vessel is blocked accurately so that we can proceed to the optical scope alignment and make changes to the engine or strut alignments if necessary.

Palmer Johnson – Which way is front??

2009 December 30
by Chris Brown
Palmer Johnson Designed Prop in Front of Strut

Palmer Johnson Designed Prop in Front of Strut

You don’t come across this design too often. 

This 90′ Palmer Johnson was one of only a few built with a novel design.  The prop is in front of the strut.  The concept allows cleaner water to enter into the prop thereby increasing the prop’s efficiency.

In order to keep the vessel running smoothly our machine shop carefully mated the stub shaft to the prop face.  Cutlass bearings are a challenge since it is difficult to get clean water running just aft of the prop in the skeg/strut.

Tiara Vibration Problems – Cutlass Bearing Spacing

2009 November 1
by Chris Brown

We just finished an interesting project on a 52′ Tiara Express Cruiser.  This boat came to High Seas after other mechanics failed to fix a major vibration problem.  During sea-trial and subsequent dial indicating measurements it was obvious that there was an engine alignment problem.   This is a v-drive engine which makes engine alignments very difficult – you must make engine mount adjustments that are opposite of the common approach which can confuse even the most experienced mechanic.   Engine alignments by prior mechanics were probably done in the water which will not help if the transmission flange is not aligned with the shaft tube.   Go here for more info on alignments….

During our disassembly we measured the distance from the single cutlass bearing in the strut to the coupler on the transmission.  We found the distance far exceeded the recommended distance between bearings as calculated in the Aquamet Crucible guide.  Any vibration from a misalignment or bent shaft would be exaggerated by a shaft whip condition.  Our solution – straighten the shafts, align the motors and add a half cutlass bearing in the stern tube.  Not a complicated or expensive solution.

The results speak for themselves.  It only took a few minutes of sea-trial running the boat at cruise and WOT to feel a big difference in the smoothness of the ride.

Another happy customer and problem solved.

Shaft Crevice Corrosion – Not Good for Tide Lip Seals

2009 October 16
by Chris Brown
Crevise Corrosion on Shafts will Destroy a Lip Seal System
Crevice Corrosion on Shafts will Destroy a Lip Seal System

While working on a complete running gear service for a new owner on a 103′ Cheoy Lee we came across a few items that needed repair.  One item was extensive crevice corrosion on the stainless steel propeller shafts.  Crevice corrosion occurs when a vessel sits too long in still water.  It is most often found in the cutlass bearing, seal or exit tube area where water is not flowing.   Crevice corrosion is most problematic in the Tide Seal (Lipseal) area since the seal requires a tight fit on a smooth turning shaft surface.  The pitting in the corroded area immediately leaks and damages the seal.

Fortunately, a crevice corrosion repair is possible using shaft weld-over techniques.  Weld-overs require specific training and skills.  The final product when done correctly is a clean, perfect shaft surface.   Compared to replacing a shaft this is a very economical repair.
A weld-over generates a lot of heat and tends to bend the shaft.  This means a shaft straightening is almost always required.  Of course, with the shafts out of the boat a check with the optical scope on the strut alignments and an overall engine alignment check is always part of the plan.

Tides Lip Seals – Don’t Torque!

2009 October 16
by Chris Brown
Too Much Torque on this Tide Seal Housing - Major Failure
Too Much Torque on this Tide Seal Housing – Major Failure

Recently we had an 80′ Lazarra come out for basic bottom and propeller work.  A courtesy inspection of all running gear exposed a major problem for this new owner and crew.  The Tides Seals – Sure Seal (dripless) system was cracked completely through.   The outer ring and collar are solid pieces that should not show signs of cracks or splits.  Unfortunately, the repair requires removal of the coupler which is the first step to removing all of the running gear.

Once out of the boat the problem was evident – half of the screws that hold the collar were torqued down and could not be removed without spinning the backing nuts in the plastic housing.  We speculate that a prior crew tried to slow a leak by torquing the screws.  This, of course, did not slow the leak and just lead to cracking the plastic.
Fortunately, Tides has collar and ring replacements for a reasonable cost and the main housing was saved and reused.
Prior to putting the shafts back in we checked the alignment with the optical scope and made some small adjustments with a minor engine alignment.  At High Seas we put the optical scope on EVERY project that involves removing the shafts.  This is the perfect time to check alignments.  Don’t waste your money by removing running gear without a full alignment check every time.